Day 2: Xian, Monday 22nd September 2025
“Though the Round Door” - Xiangzimiao Temple
18°, cloudy/hazy, drizzle then rain later
NZ$1 = Y4
Y1=NZ$0.25
We awoke on the train at around 5:30am. We both slept well with a few awakenings through the night, normally when stopping in a station. The room we were in was very hot and there didn't seem to be a way to turn the heating down; from our minimal experience of sleeper trains ( I think we have been on 7 in various countries ) this a normal problem so we were prepared with silk sleep sacks to sleep in which provide cover but allow air to flow through them.
We got up ( most of the train was waking up ) and looked outside; it was still dark but starting to get a bit of light but it looked quite gloomy / misty. Our train carriage has 3 basins in the entry lobby, 2 toilets ( 1 squatty type and 1 western type ), hot water boiler and an attendant. We watched the world go by as we neared Xian; the scenery was very rugged and hilly on one side of the train while on the other it was flat plains, with the occasional town/city passing by on either side. We also passed the site of the Terracotta Warriors but there wasn’t much to see from the train.
We were planning to get some breakfast at Xian Station so we just got our bags packed and waited. As the other 2 men in our cabin were getting off at Xian as well it was easy enough to get organised. As we neared Xian we passed a number of bridges/roads being built and passed through lots of high-rise apartments.
We pulled into Xian Railway Station at 7:50am ( a little early ) and jumped off. A quick note about trains stations in China; most cities have more than 1 and it is important to know which one you need to get to or have arrived at. We were arriving at Xian Railway Station ( Xianzhen ( zhen = station )); the main station which is located just outside the old city walls of Xian. There is also a Xian North Railway Station ( Xianbeizhen ( bei = north , zhen = station )) which we were using to leave Xian in a few days time. The main station ( Xianzhen ) handles mainly slower trains and local trains while the North Station is for high speed trains.
We headed down off the platform, through passport check ( we couldn’t see the attendant at first but he called out and waved to us to come over to his gate ), we went to Everyday Store ( like a 7Eleven ) for some snacks ( there is no breakfast place/cafe in this part of the station ) so we had a savoury bread roll and a sweet bread roll for breakfast.
We find when we are on holiday we get less fussy about what we eat for each meal, or even what times the meals are at.
We walked through the massive arrivals hall ( we didn’t realise this at the time but this hall was 2 floors below ground level ) then down to the metro Line 4 ( had to set up new Metro pass in Alipay for Xian, took about 2 minutes ) through the gate, onto the train and 2 stops south to Dachaishi then 1 stop west to Zhonglou ( Bell Tower )
We walked through to the ‘under roundabout walkway’ ( there is a roundabout around the Bell Tower, and this walkway is under the road as there are no crossings on the streets coming off the roundabout ) then up at Bell Tower Hotel. We checked in at 8:45am ( 3 nights NZ$315, bfast incl ), then up to room 507 ( on the 5th floor with view over Xida Street with a partial Bell Tower view ). This was a nice large room, so we settled in, had a shower etc and relaxed for a bit. It had been a long day already.
The roads off the bell tower roundabout are named ( clockwise from the north ) Beida, Dongda, Nanda and Xida. Literally North Street, East Street, South Street and West Street.
Headed out at 10am, walked south on Nanda Street, looked around an art space/bookstore then to the South Gate, west along Xiangzimiao Street and looked in Xiangzimiao temple, a cool little temple in amongst the trees, then north through Defu Lane. We stopped for coffee (Y130 for a coffee and a tea: NZ$40! ). Coffee seems to be the most expensive item in China!
While we were relaxing we were approached by an older gentleman who wanted to talk to us. His English was good and he was asking where we were from etc, then he wanted to interview Liz for his TikTok account. He was very friendly and made sure he told us that he was not selling anything when he approached us.
Some first impressions of China, and Xian after a hour long walk and coffee stop. Friendly people, lots of English signage ( street signs, shop names, information panels etc ), 99% of scooters are electric and 90% of cars ( hard to hear them coming, but they all have horns and aren’t scared to use them ! ). We have also quickly realised that there are not many non-Chinese people around; this was a surprise given how much of a tourist spot Xian is now. In our hotel most of the white folk we either tour groups ( bus tours etc ) or school groups.
We walked east on Fenxiang Lane back to Nanda St, then across to look around the mall opposite the hotel, which had lots of clothing stores set out more like a department store ( eg there were North Face , Nike shops etc, but they were more like section of a single store not separate shops in a mall configuration ). We went up many floor through various sections then back down again. There weren’t many customers only a few of the shop staff were brave enough to speak to us in English.
It became a pattern on this trip that we would know someone was talking/yelling at us if we heard the word ‘Hello’.
Back under the road and around the roundabout walkway to the Bell Tower entry at 11:45am ( this was the other reason why the walkway was there; to get people under the roundabout to the tower in the middle. We bought tickets from the staff after trying to use the ticket machines but failing ( Y50 ea for both the Bell and Drum Towers ) then up the tower ( through a scanner ). Walked around the 3 levels; very impressive building, but despite the name there was no Bell in the tower but there was a replica of a bell on the lower level balcony. We walked out onto the surround of the tower ( the roundabout itself ) then back underground and out of the roundabout walkway to the north west into a sunken plaza. It was starting to drizzle a bit so we decided to grab lunch wait for the drizzle to pass.
We walked towards the drum tower ( through an alley of tourist shops selling hand cream, fruit, trinkets etc ) then up a ramp to street level passed the Drum Tower, and turned north onto Huimin Street ( also called Beiyuanmen Street ). This area is called the muslim quarter and the Huimin is a tree lined street ( technically pedestrian only but lots of scooters used it , beeping and weaving between people ) full of restaurants, cafes and shops. It was busy but with a good feeling to it.
We found a Biang Biang noodle restaurant ( the official dish of Xian ( we were going to try to eat the specialty dishes of the cities we visited on this trip )). Biang Biang noodles at thick wide noodles which you can watch being made by hand by banging them on a table to stretch them out. We ordered 2 big bowls of noodles ( beef, we think ) for Y20ea, and Y5 each for a can of drink. We sat upstairs in the quiet ( the downstairs was busy and noisy; we weren’t used to the noise yet… ). Very tasty noodles but we couldn’t finish them.
Headed out on the street then back to the Drum Tower ( the drizzle had stopped ) at 1:15pm, through security, upstairs and around. It was similar to the Bell Tower but quite dark inside. Yes, it has drums.
Back down and out at 1:40pm, then walked up Huimin Street again then west through Xiyangshi Street, with more food stalls and restaurants. We bought ‘smokey icecream balls’ ( a corn cereal formed into balls then dipped in liquid nitrogen, which just explode/melt in the mouth with a a bit of popping ). We turned south on Beiguangji St and back to Xida St,then back to the hotel at 2:15pm ( now it was starting to rain ). Rested again.
Headed out again at 4:15pm for a look around the outdoor shop next to the hotel ( again a series of shops within a larger store, with North face, etc ) then back to the hotel to rest again.
Out at 6:30pm looking for tea. We headed east through a series of lanes and markets looking for places to eat. We tried to order at a couple of places but failed. A lot of restaurants have a QR code on the table and the idea is you scan the QR code, order on your phone and the meal gets delivered. We realised later why we couldn’t get it to work; the QR needs to be scanned in Alipay and then you can view the menu, order and pay all in one place. We were trying to use our phone camera to scan the QR code and use the linked website to order, which didn’t work. After a frustrating walk we found restaurant we could order at using a waitress at 7:15pm. We got a selection of meat skewers ( beef and chicken ) Y83. We walked back to hotel, stopped at Starbucks, under the mall we went to earlier, for coffees and cake and some comfy seats ( Y110! ), and back to hotel at 8:30pm.
Time for bed, and this one doesn’t move.
Zoomable Map ( pin is located on the Bell Tower )